"One thing leads to another," as they say. And it's true. During the wonderful Festival de l'Abbaye de Saint-Michel en Thiérache you don't just listen to beautiful music, you also make new connections. This is how I discovered that the abbey festival has a close relationship with the Festival de Laon.
Laon is a beautiful historic town in the Aisne department, approximately 230 kilometers from Brussels, or just over two and a half hours' drive. It lies about fifty kilometers northwest of Reims. Years ago, I drove the so-called "royal cathedral route" from Metz to Rouen. Along the way, Laon's cathedral was one of those surprising discoveries that makes your journey unforgettable.
The town, perched on a picturesque hilltop, is literally dominated by its impressive twelfth-century cathedral. A monument that, as they say these days, is somewhat underrated . The old walled city, with its paved streets, medieval buildings, and panoramic views over the surrounding plains, is more than worth a visit. And then there's the charming cable car that connects the lower town to the historic center for those who prefer to leave their car at the bottom.
You can see why. And mayor Éric Delhaye will no doubt be delighted to read it and heartily agree: Laon is well worth a detour.
Especially when you can catch the 37th Festival de Laon. The program is a textbook example of musical diversity. Not bound by a single theme or genre, the festival truly offers something for everyone. The cathedral naturally forms the beating heart of the festival, but is also used as a source of inspiration. Various works are approached as a musical cathedral in themselves: monumental, layered, and timeless.
The program features symphonies by Mozart, Beethoven, Mussorgsky, and Shostakovich. Bach's works appear in a special arrangement for string trio. There's also music by Arvo Pärt and Olivier Greif's impressive Goldberg Variations A Tale of the World . Film and literature also have a place, including a screening ofLocus Lucis and events around Marcel Proust. But ultimately, it's perhaps the musicians who will convince you, along with the city itself, to plan a city trip to Laon. To name just a few: Jaap van Zweden conducts the Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France, while Simon-Pierre Bestion and La Tempête offer a completely different musical experience. You'll discover the rest of the impressive program best by checking online.
The festival runs from September 10 to October 7, 2026.
If you love music, heritage, and surprising discoveries, you've found an excellent destination. photos: Dirk Smits
